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How to Make a Toddler size Picnic Table
Free do-it-yourself plans
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Eight two by fours is enough wood to make this little table for the little tykes.
All the cutting angles and dimensions of all the parts are shown in the diagrams.
What type of connectors to use, and how many of each type,
and virtualy everything else you need to know to make this picnic table
for your children or grandchildren.
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The finished youngster's picnic table will be 21 inches high and 36 inches long by 44 inches wide.
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top view |
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front view
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end view |
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Lumber Needed
| Get 8 boards (8' long 2x4's) to cut the pieces for this picnic table for kids.
And maybe a couple extra just in case.
board #1: cut 36", 36", and 17  "
board #2: cut 36", 36", and 17 "
board #3: cut 36", 36", and 17 "
board #4: cut 36", 36", and 15"
board #5: cut 36", 36", and 15"
board #6: cut 36", and 43"
board #7: cut 43", and 27  "
board #8: cut 27 ", 27 ", and 27 " |
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Tools Needed
tape measure
square
pencil
saw
drill
hammer
sander
extension cord
nut drivers
socket set The saw should be a compound
sliding mitre saw if at all possible.
Building a child's picnic table is your
perfect reason to buy one.
It is small enough to take outside, and
it can cut through a 2x4 in one second. |
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Tips for Quality
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When choosing lumber for your picnic table for the little ones, you can check for warping, bowing and twisting
by holding one end of the board near your eye and looking down the length of the board.
Also check for cracks, splits and excessive printing.
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Pressure treated lumber may not be the best choice for picnic tables,
because it allows the toxic chemicals in pressure treated wood to be in contact with people and food.
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Before marking the angles to be cut for legs,
select the nicer looking side of the piece of wood to be showing toward that end of the tot's picnic table,
keeping in mind that you need two legs angled left and two right.
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Also line up the end grain for the cleat pieces this way before marking the angles to cut.
This allows better water drainage as the wood ages, because the endgrain tends to straighten with age.
So this way the edges of the boards will age downward not up.
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During assembly when you are selecting which side of the seat boards and table top boards will be up,
the cupping of their end-grain should also be this way.
However if you have boards with a noticeably bad looking side and you are not going to paint over it,
then by all means put the good looking side up.
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The wood of the preschooler picnic table should be given a protective finish,
either water sealer, wood oil, varnish, paint,
or something to protect it from rain, snow, moisture, rot, mold, bugs, etc.
After all the pieces are cut, you can sand the rough edges and give each piece a coat of finish.
And apply the second coat after assembly.
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Assembly Instructions
| The table supports are the two matching 17 " pieces, one for each end of the picnic table. The long edge is the top. On the top edge of both table supports draw marks 4  " and 8  " from each end, that will help position the legs. With a small table like this the second mark is at the middle. | | | | Make similar marks on the long top edge of the two matching 43" seat supports 10 " and 15 " from each end, where the legs will line up with them. | | | On the patio or floor beside a wall or other straight object, Lay one 43" seat support flat on the floor parallel to the wall 8" from it, with the short edge toward the wall. The top of the seat support will be 11 " from the wall. Lay one 17 " table support flat on the floor parallel to the wall 16" from the wall, with the short edge toward the wall.  Center the table support along the length of the seat support. The top edge of the table support is 19 " from the wall. Position two legs over those two boards guided by the marks. Note that the following alignment is more important than these marks.Once you have the table support centered and the legs in position, measure from corner to corner to verify. From the foot to the end of the table support will be around 30 ". The important part is for the two diagonal measurements to be equal. | | |  Likewise the diagonals from foot to seat support ends will be around 47", and must match each other. Also the 10 " of seat support extending past each leg is needed to fit the seat boards on later. | | |  On each board, draw lines where the other boards cross it. Drill one  " hole for a bolt, in the center of each of the two seat support joints. | | |  Drill one " hole for a bolt, in the center of each of the two table support joints. | | |  With carriage bolts you just use one washer before the nut. For regular bolts put a washer on the bolt first, then the bolt through the wood, then another washer and the nut. The bolts go through the horizontal boards first then the legs. The nut goes on the leg side of the joint. (That way the nut will be at the inner side of the finished table.) Assemble the end unit with 4 bolts fairly snug but not too tight at this time. | | | | Lay the end unit down flat with the legs on the top side this time. Recheck diagonal measurements and make a final adjustment if necessary. When the length of the diagonals match (from each foot to the opposite corner of the table support), tighten down all the nuts and then nail the joints. Put two 2 " nails in each joint. Assemble the other end the same way. | | | | See if you can get a helper for this part to hold the end units up. Stand up the end units. The legs should be facing together. The outer sides are the sides with the table supports & seat supports. Lay the 6 seat boards where they go, 3 for each seat. Line up seat boards with 4" at the end of each board overhanging past the seat supports, and for the outermost seat boards, the back edge goes " past the end of the seat supports. There should be " gaps between the 2x4's of the seat. Nail them on with two 3" nails per joint. | | | | Lay the 5 table top boards where they go. Line them up with 4" overhang at each end. Spread them out equally with about " gaps between them. The edge of the two outer 2x4's should be about " past the ends of the table supports. Mark where they go, as the hammering will shake them around. Line up each 2x4 to its mark as you nail it down with two 3" nails per joint. | | | | Turn the table upside down. A table cleat lays flat (not on edge) under the middle of the table top. It ties the 5 boards together in the middle. Nail the table cleat across the center of the 5 table boards with 2 " nails. | | | | Nail on the end braces. They go from under the center of the table to the middle of the end units. | | | | Check for any exposed nail points, and hammer them over so they will not catch or scratch anyone. | | | | Sand the rough edges, and apply the finish as desired. |
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Copyright © 2011 Zirgo Corp.
All Rights Reserved.
This document may not be used for commercial gain
without written permission from the publisher.
While every precaution has been taken in the preparation
of this web page, the publisher and author assume
no responsibility for errors or omissions.
Neither is any liability assumed for damages
resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
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